Plus a new breakfast menu from Deli by Chele and an introduction to Old Manila’s new chef
What’s trending on the local food scene? Two things—chef collaborations and Indian cuisine. These two have become so prominent as of late, and Manila-based diners are quick to catch on. Just last week, the busy and hardworking team of Toyo Eatery held a street food fiesta together with Mumbai’s celebrated restaurant, Masque, where panipuri shared space with empanada, and tandoor was served alongside silog.
Before September came to a close, the chef duo behind Hapag Dining also played with southern Indian spices as they welcomed Kuala Lumpur’s Nadodi in their kitchen. Snacks such as thosai and murukku as well as flavors like masala chai complemented Filipino suam na mais, kinilaw and lechon Cebu, resulting in a multicourse menu that didn’t hold back on flavors.
Also spicing up the industry is the introduction of everything new, from restaurants to hotel chef and deli menu.
Izakaya Geronimo
Tucked inside the Asian Century Center in the heart of Bonifacio Global City is the latest project of the Wagyu Studio group called Izakaya Geronimo. It’s a huge and sprawling space that has several sections.
There’s a dedicated sake bar right by the entry where guests can indulge in their premium sake and Japanese highballs, as well as a ramen-ya where you get to choose your flavor for your bowl of rich pork broth and thick egg noodles—classic with pork tallow, spicy red with child paste oil and black garlic with burnt garlic oil.
There’s a sushi bar where customers can order from their array of sashimi, temaki, and raw and cold plates such as yuzu burrata, truffle ponzu salmon and toro wasabi salsa with miso. The lounge area nestled at the far end of the room offers a more laid-back and chill vibe, perfect for enjoying Japanese-inspired cocktails and sharable dishes.
Not to miss are their signatures, including the Fillet-o-Fish, a melt-in-your-mouth fish sandwich with takana pickles and mentaiko roe; Popcorn Shrimp, juicy shrimp fried in a panko batter then tossed with yuzu mayonnaise; and the Toro Uni Caviar Temaki, a hand-rolled piece of indulgence composed of luscious fatty tuna, Kaluga Queen caviar and freshly flown-in uni. (Izakaya Geronimo is at G/F Asian Century Center, 3rd Avenue corner 27th Street Bonifacio Global City, Taguig.)Taqueria Franco
French tacos aren’t really something new. In France, matelas, which are basically flour tortillas stuffed with fries, cheese and deli meat, made waves in the early 2000s. But what Franco is serving is far different from that fast food item, as their offerings have a lot more whimsy.
Their fries are drenched in tajin seasoning and come with a roasted tomato and avocado mousse dip; the tostada is done a la eggs Benedict; and the quesadilla is stuffed with chicken cordon bleu and two cheeses plus a smudge of bechamel. It’s fusion that works and doesn’t try hard.
Run by cousins RJ Galang and Miko Calo, along with friends and partners Toogy and Laveena Clavecilla, Taqueria Franco is the result of a playful what-if that snowballed into a legit eatery lodged in the middle of Salcedo Village.
“Miko started spitballing suggestions, but we both kept going until the joking around felt like the beginning of a potential concept,” says Galang. “That same night, I had all these ideas in my head already. I already had a name for it and an idea of what I wanted the logo to be. I’ve always liked tacos and the idea of opening a taqueria, so putting this all together felt like everything falling into place.”
Birria is Calo’s personal favorite, and so a version had to make it to the menu. Their version has lamb bourguignon, mushrooms, Emmental and jus.
“I like the freedom that comes with just liking flavors that work together, and not being too tied down in making sure it’s this kind of cuisine or that kind of cuisine,” she says. (Taquería Franco is at G/F 130 LPL Center, San Agustin Street, Salcedo Village, Makati.)Deli by Chele breakfast menu
Ever since Chele Gonzalez and Carlos Villaflor launched their deli last December 2020, people have been enjoying their sandwiches as a meal, especially those that feature their beloved pastrami and artisanal sourdough bread. But (and as expected) we know that this formidable group won’t stop there. They have become quite reliable for their comfort food and so they reinforce this further by releasing an all-day dining breakfast line.
In sync with their New York vibe, they have a Pastrami, Egg and Cheese Bagel; Salmon and Avocado Toast; and Pastrami Eggs Benedict, all three of which make for a light snack best paired with their array of kombuchas and teas.
The call for rice is hard to deny, and so for those craving for a heftier meal, the Deli has crafted bowls to tempt them with, such as the Pastrami Tapa on Garlic Rice, Deli Corned Beef, Crispy Bacon on Pastrami Fried Rice, and a Longganisa Pattie on Garlic Rice.
To cap the meal, two sugary confections using bread made the cut—the Sourdough Bread Pudding and Mixed Berries French Toast.
Deli by Chele has three branches: The Power Plant Mall in Rockwell, Makati, The Podium Mall in Ortigas and Robinsons Magnolia in Quezon City. Old Manila’s new chef
Growing up, his dream was to be a rugby player like his childhood hero, New Zealander celebrity athlete Jonah Lomu. But it seems like fate had something else planned for Gaël Kubler, as he now finds himself the new chef de cuisine of The Peninsula Manila’s iconic Old Manila.
Born and raised in the northeastern French region of Alsace, the 32-year-old fondly remembers spending time in the kitchen with his grandmother, who had a lot of influence on his cooking. “I remember making brioche with her. It was rich and yellow from all the duck eggs and butter we used. It was also because of a promise I’d made to her that I decided to pursue a career as a chef.”
After receiving formal training at the Lycée Hôtelier Alexandre Dumas in Strasbourg, he earned his stripes at L’Auberge de I’ll in Illhaeusern, Alsace, under his first mentor, three-Michelin-star chef Marc Haeberlin—at age 19. From there, he has been traveling around the world, toiling in different kitchens and honing his signature style and philosophy. Now, he’s stationed in Old Manila to serve refined dishes such as the Crab and Green Pepper Ravioli.
Old Manila is locted at The Peninsula Manila, corner of Ayala and Makati Avenues, 1226 Makati.Follow the author at fooddudeph on Instagram.
Angelo Comsti writes the Inquirer Lifestyle column Tall Order. He was editor of F&B Report magazine.
