Not only did some items add to my culinary vocabulary, but they also revealed how dishes like ‘tinumis’ and ‘isaw’ can proudly stand next to beloved flavors like peanut satay
The idea to cook together was hatched when both tandems—Thirdy Dolatre and Kevin Navoa of Hapag, Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar of Café Aurora—were invited to participate in a roundtable interview and photo shoot for a luxury magazine.
“[Santos and Vilar] were very easygoing and easy to talk to,” says Navoa.
And so it was only fitting for them to consider the formidable duo for their last collaboration at Hapag in Katipunan, Quezon City, before they close their doors and move to a much bigger space in Rockwell, Makati.
Santos and Vilar were just as excited, as it was their first gig in their new restaurant. The last one was at Hey Handsome in Bonifacio Global City, which ceased operations in December 2018.
As with their recent collaborations with Modan and Linamnam restaurants, Hapag wanted every single dish to be worked on by both parties, showcasing their strengths and displaying through multiple plates how Filipino flavors combine well with the savory notes of the rest of Southeast Asia. “We thought it was an excellent way to learn from one another and also test how well our teams work together,” says Santos.
Discovery
The menu was a discovery of sorts for me. Not only did some items add to my culinary vocabulary, but they also revealed how street-side dishes like tinumis (Nueva Ecija dinuguan) and isaw can proudly stand next to beloved and more familiar flavors like peanut satay, as well as don a more sophisticated outfit, such as a mousseline.
There was a prosperity salad, served in individual portions and tossed high for good fortune, composed of herbs, cold-smoked hamachi and a medley of fruits and vegetables that had been treated various ways—fresh, grilled, pickled and miso-cured.
Bonete, typically shaped like a bonnet (hence the name), came like a doughnut hole, crowned with fish and torched ginger flower marmalade, while the roti prata offered a choose-your-own-adventure option with a bevy of dips and spread—curry leaf butter, local honey and a cheekily named rich sauce, curry kare.
Midway through the nine courses was a plate of beef sticks, three skewers featuring different parts—beef heart konbujime, beef isaw with peanut satay and beef tongue pastrami tocino.
Much like a Hapag meal, the mains arrived at the table all at the same time and were served with fragrant rice. There was shredded kambing rendang; otak-otak made by the Café Aurora team, and the aligue sauce it was bathed in made by Dolatre’s team; and binusog na ayam goreng, aka Malaysian fried chicken wings stuffed with chicken tempeh. As for the condiments, each table got a serving of durian sambal, sambal matah and lemongrass sambal.
To cap off the meal, a shokupan bun sandwiched scoops of ice cream in three flavors—chocnut, kesong puti and Wilson’s treebank mulberry.
Their restaurants’ respective kitchen and front-of-house staff, much like the guests, had a great time throughout the two-night dining experience.
“It was an absolute joy to work with them,” says Vilar. “Nav, Thirdy and Erin are true leaders in what they do. Our team, myself included, is moved and inspired by their talent, wisdom and generosity.”The Hapag boys had nothing but compliments for them, too. “We love how they seem to have a renewed love for cooking,” says Dolatre.
“Their team, just like ours, is very close and tight-knit.” INQFollow the author at @fooddudeph on Instagram.
Angelo Comsti writes the Inquirer Lifestyle column Tall Order. He was editor of F&B Report magazine.
