Terra Madre’ aims to gather food communities in Visayas for a series of events, including a food fair and cooking demos
The most sustainable restaurant in the country is in Bacolod.
It’s a claim that’s backed up only by the restaurants I’ve eaten in. Even so, Lanai by FreshStart has a lot going for it, such that it certainly makes for a strong case.
A proper farm-to-table restaurant was the natural next step for owners Ramon “Chin Chin” Uy Jr. and wife Francine, who were already running an organic fertilizer plant, organic farm, organic retail store, salad and juice bar and a café in Bacolod, among many others. Apart from being able to showcase their healthy produce in a way chefs and bartenders can make edible sense of, the couple also wants to support other organic farmers, artisans and fisherfolk that share their vision.“We also want to highlight the food biodiversity of Negros Island, from the land to the sea. We use many ingredients from the Slow Food Ark of Taste, which is a list of endangered heritage ingredients that are sustainably produced, unique in taste and are a part of a distinct eco-region. Our approach to save them is to educate people and eat and celebrate them before they are forgotten,” adds Chin Chin.
With the help of chef Patrick Go, who produced a mouthwatering menu and mixologist Kalel Demetrio, who came up with a slew of signature cocktails, the Uys swung open the doors to Lanai by FreshStart, located on Araneta Highway, Bangga Sitio Aning at Barangay Pahanocoy, on Dec. 8, 2021.They have kadios falafel with tinigib corn tabouleh; kansi carnitas; kale crisps with batwan chimichurri; chicken with kaffir lime pesto; pizzas that showcase chorizo and blue cheese from Negros; muscovado blue marlin; passionfruit-glazed lechon kawali with adlai; and horchata tres leches made with carabao’s milk and Guimaras tultul salt.
Extensive menu
Go’s extensive menu—from pastas, soups and sandwiches to wraps, salads and power bowls—doesn’t hold back in showing support for local ingredients and their sources. But even more noble—and what print doesn’t reflect—is the fact that their food contains no MSG and artificial flavoring or coloring. The all-organic cold-pressed juices are sweetened only with wholesome alternatives; salad dressings are made entirely from scratch; the cheeses are made in Negros; and the meats are devoid of growth hormones, antibiotics and GMOs.
“Our menu is based on the food biodiversity of Negros Island, a region rich in natural and cultural heritage. We get most of the ingredients from a 40–100 kilometer radius, which reduces our carbon footprint and supports local farmers,” Go says.
The same fashion extends to their beverages, where Demetrio gives a nod to local spirits including craft beer and tapuey, biodynamic wines and cocktails. The Myth Namit combines fermented criollo cacao, insulin plant shrub, wild yutukon, calamansi, their ampalaya herb-infused house liqueur and salted caramel vodka for a sip that’s balanced in flavor, while the Negrense Sour marries dalandan, kaffir, ginger, duhat wine, Agimat gin, Sagay wild honey and rosemary for a drink that’s more refreshing and sharp.
“We want to showcase our organic produce and the Slow Food principles of good, clean and fair food,” says Chin Chin, who has organized the very first “Terra Madre” in the country, which aims to gather their network of food communities in Visayas for a series of events including a food fair, conference and cooking demonstrations.
Further reinforcing its cause for sustainability, Lanai also operates on zero waste management by using the peelings and waste for fermentation or composting. They also have a composting facility on the farm and they use the compost to fertilize their crops. In addition, they use renewable energy sources such as solar panels, while their used cooking oil is converted into diesel fuel.
“Even in our design, we incorporated recycled and locally made materials such as wood, glass and metal,” he says. “We wanted to create a cozy and eco-friendly atmosphere for our customers, while showcasing the beauty and diversity of Negros Island.” INQ“Terra Madre Visayas: Food and Cultural Biodiversity” is open to the public. It will happen at the Provincial Capitol Grounds, Bacolod City, Nov. 15 to Nov. 19. The program includes talks on native bees in food biodiversity and Slow Food gardens, as well as taste workshops on wild food and kamayan.
Follow the author at @fooddudeph in Instagram.
Angelo Comsti writes the Inquirer Lifestyle column Tall Order. He was editor of F&B Report magazine.
