
In just two short days, the place made such a good impression on me—from the playful Mangyan kids to the natural wonders and my new food discoveries
Let’s get one thing straight—Paluan is not Palawan, which it is often mistaken as. A municipality in the province of Occidental Mindoro, this humble place can be easily reached by a two-hour ro-ro or cargo ship ride from Batangas to the Abra de Ilog port, and another two by land. It has a population of approximately 20,000, 40 percent of which is composed of the Iraya Mangyan.
Paluan comes from the word palo or “to whip.” Back in the day, whenever the tribesmen seized a pirate entering the land, they would tie them up upside down, with the shoulders touching the ground, and whip them with a rattan instrument. This form of physical punishment bestowed on culprits became the inspiration for the name of the district.
Last week, upon the invitation of Jaison Yang of the Travel Warehouse Inc., as part of his Fly and Share charitable program, we headed to this quiet municipality and gave away school supplies, snacks and solar panels to the communities. In turn, we were spoiled by their warm hospitality, inviting resorts, and of course, delicious and unique food.
Mayor Michael Diaz, a local politician for a total of 20 years, considers their place to be among the country’s best-kept secrets, with only a few aware of what they have to offer.
In all honesty, I had no clue what to expect from a place I had never heard of before. But from what I witnessed and got to experience in a short span of two days, I was so impressed with the many things I got to try that I now have so much to say—and well, write.
Water wonderThere’s the Calawagan Mountain River Resort, situated at the foot of the Calavite mountain range in Brgy. Alipaoy. It is perhaps the most popular landmark in the province, given that it has been recognised as the cleanest inland body of water in the Philippines by the Department of Interior and Local Government’s National Awards back in 1996 and 1998.
It is a distinction that holds true to date with a lush rainforest hovering over the stretch of river gifted with pristine and cold water cascading over big and bold rock formations, creating pockets of pools in which guests can lounge in. A wooden bridge lords over the landmark, and a manmade 3-meter-high waterfall provides the soothing sound of free-flowing water.
Another attraction is the Mount Calavite Wildlife Sanctuary, which is considered as one of the oldest nature reserves in the country. The 26-km hiking trail that starts from the Paluan National High School on Fineza Street can reward you with a sighting of the Mindoro dwarf buffalo, otherwise known as the tamaraw, as well as a bounty of flora and fauna.

‘Mayor Adobo’
If there’s anything visitors shouldn’t miss, it’s the food of the locals, claims the mayor.
“Paluweños cook well,” he said in Filipino. In fact, Diaz himself is known for cooking one of the best adobos in the land. “Beginning with our forebears, we’ve been cooking adobo—whether it’s kangkong, kamote tops, or string beans. They say our adobo tastes good because it’s done with bulong (prayer).”
The day we met with him, he presented us with three kinds of adobo—the traditional kind with pork cooked in soy sauce and vinegar, one using wild boar or what they call simaron, and another with igat or eel cooked in coconut milk and luyang dilaw.During the same lunch, Victor John Quiñones, tourism officer at Paluan, laid out an impressive spread of local specialties, including one that typically induces a “Fear Factor” kind of trepidation.

Uok or coconut worm is said to be a specialty in the province, especially among the Mangyans living in the mountains who get their dose of essential vitamins and minerals from this invertebrate. There are actually seven kinds of uok, claims Quiñones, but this one is the most palatable of the lot. The others are too bitter. They simply boil the worm and enjoy its crunchy-on-the-outside, creamy-on-the-inside bite and its potent woody aftertaste.

‘Kakanin’ varietyThere’s no shortage of sweet treats in this town. Among the pieces of evidence is their all-time favorite pasalubong, the pastillas de Paluan, where fresh carabao’s milk and sugar are mixed for a long while until it turns solid. They’re then shaped into flat pieces and wrapped.
According to Quiñones, the milk candy actually came from the north. When their ancestors migrated to Mindoro, they brought with them this snack and eventually, the municipality made it into their own and popularized it.
They also have a pastillas spread called bubö using the same mixture, only cooked for a shorter time to produce a less congealed body.
Almost having the same consistency is the aros, which uses two of the main ingredients of the milk candy plus galpong, which consequently makes it gloopy to a palatable degree. The result is a custard-like sauce that people enjoy dipping ripe mangoes or suman sa ibos in.

The locals told me that aros used to be a status symbol as only those who have money can afford such an indulgent treat. Nowadays, a big tub of it would cost around P1,600, and given its nature, shelf life is only 2-3 days.

They have a version of ginataan called palarusdos, and another called sinugno, which is a favorite among the elderly, claims Quiñones. Mung beans are first toasted until black and then tossed in a pot of glutinous rice cooked in coconut milk. It’s akin to ginataang malagkit with a subtle distinct burnt flavor coming from the monggo.

Townspeople enjoy three kinds of rice cakes, and though they share the same cooking procedure, the base ingredient is different. There’s bibingkang galpong made of glutinous rice flour, balinghoy made of grated cassava, and sanglay, which is similar to biko but topped with a creamy set custard.

In just two short days, Paluan had made a good impression on me. From the playful Mangyans and its natural wonders to my new food discoveries, the relatively unknown municipality has quickly become one I’ll remember forever.
Special thanks to Travel Warehouse Inc., Bella Lopez, Brx Seancyan, VJ Quiñones and Mayor Diaz.

Angelo Comsti writes the Inquirer Lifestyle column Tall Order. He was editor of F&B Report magazine.